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Hi Chris,
Many thanks. The water is only coming in to the locker between the heads compartment and the sink compartment so removing the internal lining is in effect the internal molding and this is probably too big a job for me. I like the idea of having someone hose down the area while I check from the inside.
I’ll let you know how I get on.
Cheers, Bernie
Hi Gerry, this probably won’t be much help but when I replaced the galvanised stanction bases on my Rowan I had to drill out some of the machine screws holding them to the nuts which are encapsulated into the deck molding. I replaced the bases with stainless home made bases that had four counter sunk holes such that they missed the nut underneath.
Is the survey for insurance? The Surveyor will probably have some useful advice.
Chris is absolutely right, do not compromise on seacocks. Having said that, and don’t blame me if this goes wrong, as a last resort white vinegar will generally free them up but it will also dissolve corrosion and hence weaken / damage corroded bronze. I would do this with the boat out of the water.
I always wipe the inside of seacocks with waterproof grease when I have the boat out of the water by sticking a soft brush up them from the outside. Have softwood bungs of the correct size to hand near each seacock.
It might spoil the adventure of finding new places but I find Keep Turning Left a great source of interesting places to go. Basically sail out into the sea and then turn left until you cannot go any further then do it again, and again! Seriously, Dylan Winter is not everyone’s cuppa but he has explored some amazing places. https://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/ and his video skills are among the best.
The new site looks excellent. I couldn’t reach the forum through the new web site but it might not be live yet. Would you be able to leave a note here when new functions are available?
Hi George, herewith the text of the email. I sent it on 29th August and again today so please do let me know if you don’t receive it.
It is less plans than a method I was referring to.
With my boat ashore, I took a 4″ fence post, rested it,upright, against the hull at about midships and stuck on battens to indicate the curve of the hull between the rubbing strake and the waterline. I then made a curved section out of 4″ stock to match the battens. I glued and screwed this to the post. I put a stainless M20 bolt through this about 3″ down from the rubbing strake and counter bored the inside to accept a lock nut to keep the bolt in place.
Using the bolt I marked the hul and drilled a 25mm hole. On the inside of the hull I fitted a baulk of wood with an M20 thread extender mounted it in. I made this blind with a short bolt on the inside to stop water getting in.
The leg has an eye on the inside to which I attach a line to hold the leg from fore and aft so that it remains vertical.
On first using the legs I only fitted one so that I could check that the other leg was the right length. It wasn’t so I took 1″ off both legs. This makes them both about 1/2″ short which seem OK on hard standing. I haven’t tried them on soft mud but i do have a couple of 18mm ply feet just in case.
cheers,
Bernie
Hi George, I hope you saw my email outlining how I built my beaching legs. I don’t think I ever mentioned plans but they are so simple I am sure you will be able to work something out.
Hi George, I am not sure where you could buy a pair but I know several people who have made them including myself. I only use mine on very rare occasions when I take the ground with minimal tidal flow such as a quiet bay or off the club hard so I haven’t put too much strain on them. It is vital that your boat’s weight is on its keel, i.e. the legs are slightly too short. If you are interested in making your own I can outline how I made mine for my Rowan 22′. Hope this helps.
I agree with the iPad / Navionics option. A very minor draw back of the iPad is screen brightness in bright sunlight but this is easily overcome.
For solar panels to charge batteries, this all depends on how much use your batteries get. I have a 5W panel to charge a 110Ah battery and this is adequate for fortnightly weekend trips. Even with 5W I use a regulator as overcharging batteries probably doesn’t do them any good. There are several circuits on the internet and this worked out cheaper than buying a ready made unit.
