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I had the same problem with my gear box. My stir up pump drained the oil from the engine. I then added oil to the engine and all went fine until I set off. The stir up pump had also drained the gear box oil which is separate. If it’s the same as mind you need to check the gear box oil level and fill to required level. Then all should function
Thanks Geoff. I have already been able to drain the free water away as the 1 inch hole is at the base of the bilge keel at its front end. I agree the ballast now needs to be left to dry out before it is resealed, but to what length should I go to treat the iron ballast. Article 198 suggests drilling extra holes in the keel and flushing with fresh water to remove the salt and then using a hair dryer. However, I would be concerned that running additional water through the ballast would cause the iron to further rust and expand more than any salt residual. Are there any alternatives that I should be considering, like flushing with a stabilising solvent ( if such a thing exists) or filling the voids with resin, before it is professionally resealed.
Hi Pat
I think you have got me mixed up with Paul’s approach, who has used the PVC soffit boarding, not me.
I agree it looks great and if I was needing to do it again I think I would be considering using a PVC option in the saloon. However, in some areas, like in the cabins, the surface needs to flex both ways, so would like to know Paul how these areas have been covered. <span style=”text-align: center;”>Peter</span>
Thanks Paul
Yes. Every time I open the gate the rail sags and the fenders have to be readjusted. Another job to be added to my winter to do list.
Thanks Jan. That quite interesting. Much further back than I had been considering, but much easier to use directly from the cockpit. I will have to do a few trials when against the pontoon using the existing deck furniture.
I also notice you have braces on your rail stanchions, which I was also considering adding.Some years ago I used a white car liner with sponge backing. I followed the pattern of liner previously used and glued directly to the boat shell. The exceptions were the flat areas where I mounted the liner on hardboard and screwed to shell. However, I had a section of board I want to replace and used a soft play mat instead of the boarding, which has provided better insulation.
I had considered carpet tiles as they mould well to the shell, but as they are difficult to clean and are absorbent so have a tendency to go mouldy.
The most difficult thing was cleaning off the old lining sponge which had powdered and was not easy to stick too unless it is first all removed.
Thanks Paul. I read an article that says the midship cleat is best placed on the broadest part of the boat as yours appears to be. Another article however suggests a pontoon trial should be used to determine the best position. By first loosening bow and stern warps, a temporary warp secured at various locations midship should be trialed with the motor running gently with rudder turning the stern gently into pontoon. Has anyone tried this approach?
Do you have the ships original papers? As Bob has explained they will have had the same reference numbers. However, you may have some additional numbers if registered outside uk.
Hi.
Glad to hear the Black Tulip is back in use. It looked rather lonely when we saw it on the hard at Lauwersoog when we visited in the summer of 2018.
Happy sailingPeter
Yes. I am currently using a main mast stay strap, but it’s too far forward and I don’t like putting to much lateral pressure on it, being it’s designed to take vertical loads.
I am wanting to have a midship cleat to improve my pontoon mooring when single handed, or when with an inexperienced crew. My objective is to be able to loop a line onto a pontoon cleat from a midship cleat when in the cockpit, so when I use gentle forward motor, I can then jumping off a stationary boat and then secure permanent bow and stern lines. Like now I can spring fore and aft and leave the midship line loose for reuse when leaving.
The question is where do I position the midship cleat for best effect. Any suggestions? Could a cleat on the genoa track be considered?
I have the same arrangement. The mast tensions on my White are primarily achieved by the side stays. I had them professionally tensioned before I crossed the North Sea in 2016 and ever since have check periodically and tensioned them evenly to the same tensions. The mast head to mast head stay however has never been fully tensioned to a specific load. I have a shackle on the mizzen end of the stay which I have tensioned by hand to the front mast cleat drawing it down with 4 to 5 loops before tying off. I have always assumed its purpose is to limit the forward movement of the top of the main mast when using the genoa on a run.
I have a White II which has an Optimal speed of about 4.5kt at 1800 revs. At that speed I average about 1.9lts/hr. If I pick the speed up to 6kt at 2200 revs the fuel consumption goes up to about 2.5lts/hr.
Hi. Are you looking for a permanently down bathing platform or something that hinges down when at rest.
