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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 72 total)
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  • in reply to: Sprayhood #3682
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    you will have to have one made I think.

    what part of the uk are you in as we have a

    good chap here in the Suffolk/Essex area?

    Chris

    Technical Officer

    in reply to: seacocks in the heads #3659
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    You need to replace the same size as the existing with DZR marine grade ball valve type .

    Always  replace the skin fitting and tail as well.

    You need to put two s/s clips below the water line .

    (the taps are marked with the size).

    chris

    in reply to: Restoring a Macwester 26 #3647
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    the fuel will not be any good and needs to de disposed

    can you send me a picture of your boat and I will have a look at the problem

    chris

    in reply to: Mac26 Exchange window rubber seals #3617
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    A company called Walker Rubber (in Norwich in England) sells this item, but a truck or car company in your country may be able to supply it also.

    It may be used for horse box conversions and is used for Land Rover back windows.

    If you do use Waller Rubber and they won’t post it to you, I could always receive the parcel from them and then post it out to you.

    Chris

     

    in reply to: Mac26 Exchange window rubber seals #3614
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Merry Christmas to you and your family from Linda and I.

    in reply to: Mac26 Exchange window rubber seals #3613
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    If it was my boat I would take them out and have two new ones made. Due to the age of our boats, the frames may be corroded or distorted as well (where you cannot see it).

    Chris

    in reply to: Shaft noise #3563
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi

    It sounds like you need to take the heat exchanger apart and clean all the tubes and flush the entire engine out.

    As for the shaft cutlass bearing, this should last a good few years. So it could be that the engine is out of alignment which would also  make your seal leak.

    Have you repacked the seal lately and do you grease it after every trip?

    Also as a side note, it’s good practice to lay the boat up out of water for a few weeks/months each year to allow the hull to dry and any below water maintenance to be completed.

    Chris.

    in reply to: Small leak from behind the stern gland #3541
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Sorry – that should say liquid PTFE</p>

    in reply to: Small leak from behind the stern gland #3540
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi there.

    it’s a chance it could be capillary action and you might be able to dismantle the stern gland , repack it with string and grease, tighten up and see if that cures it.

    if not, you need to take the boat out of the water, unscrew the gland from the tube (you may have to remove the small bulkhead and replace). When you re-screw the gland back on to the tube use a very liberal amount of PTFE which will stop any leaks on the tube.

    if you have to remove the small bulkhead, clean the hull thoroughly before fibre glassing the a new bulkhead in.

    in reply to: EPDM Rubbing Strake fix? #3537
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    That’s fine like that

    in reply to: Restarting the engine #3534
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi repair or renew the the engine but I don’t

    recommend an out board

    What make is the engine how old

    in reply to: Removing the water tanks Wight 30 #3525
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi Len

    Some water tanks do have inspection hatchs.
    You can not turn a fuel tank in to a water tank. Does the water smell or taste when you make tea or coffee? There are lots of places you can put an eberspacher but it must be close to the hull side as the exhaust can only be about two feet long. It can run off the domestic battery but needs to be charged up. An auto charger is a must!

    in reply to: Rowan crown deck thickness #3508
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    in reply to: Rowan crown deck thickness #3507
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi there.

    The only way to do this properly is to take the old headlining down and disregard. Bond some strips of wood on to the bare fibreglass (1” x 3/4@). Make some quarter ply panels to fit – I suggest having about three pieces. Glue  new leather cloth on to the panels using PVA glue rather than Evostick. Pull the edges over to the back and staple. When all dry, screw covered panels to the strips of wood. You can either use hardwood joint covers (using one screwed strip over the edges) or screws and cap cup. Only use stainless steel fittings.

    in reply to: Sliding hatch vents Mac27 Mk II #3478
    Chris NixonChris Nixon
    Keymaster

    Hi what is underneath when you take them off?

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 72 total)