[Paul Stevens]

Hi Peter/Pat

The cladding is reasonably flexible but not for small sharp curves. In the saloon it is no problem as it runs the length of it. Across the cabin as each panel is approx 10 inches wide  it follows the curve naturally. In the forecabin where the headroom drops to deck level I used foam backed white vinyl and then cladding on the level bits up to the vinyl edge to which I fixed some trim. I have a photo where you can see the cladding facing up to the vinyl. It hadn’t been finished or trimmed in the photo but it gives an idea as to how it was done.

In reply to your query Pat I fixed the velcro to the facing surface of the PVC trim  attached to the stringers . The other velcr under the cladding panels and pushed them together.  I overdid the velcro so use trial amounts for the correct adhesion so its easily removable if needed.

Hope you solve the keel issue Peter.

 

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[Paul Stevens]

Hi again Peter

At the same time as I fitted an extra cleat I also added a stanchion brace. The main reason was that the fenders  when added to the guard wire caused them to bend worryingly during bad weather on the pontoon.It has made a huge difference . It was easy to do using fittings bought to frame a bimini.. I bought all the bits from a company called seas screw who specialise in stainless fittings. There is only the one piece you have to fix to the toe rail the rest are screw fittings . You can also see the extra cleat  fitted in the photo.

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[Paul Stevens]

When I restored my Seaforth the headlining was in such a state that I threw it out. The relatively large sheets of damp ply covered in vinyl were beyond recovery. They were also quite large sheets that I thought would be a pain to copy.  Instead of ply which would be prone to damp I decided to go the Upvc route.  I had used cladding before at home and thought it worth a try. In order to leave space between the cladding panels and the grp I glassed in some foam stringers . Over these I then added some pvc trim strips which further increased the space between.  This also allowed me to use heavy duty stick on velcro to secure the pvc cladding to the pvc strips as the surface of the glass stringer would be an uneven and unsuitable surface for velcro to adhere to.  I secured the pvc trim strips with a small number of stainless screws which went through the stringers and marginally into the above grp.  Since the deck on my Seaforth is a double skinned grp sandwich there was no worry about damaging the watertight deck as it would only be in the lower layer.( I don’t know if yours is double skinned so you need to check it first before using any screws) . I strategically placed some velcro on the strips and likewise on the cladding panels to meet up. The cladding panels were 250 cm wide and 2.6 M long. If  I remember it took eight panels to complete. It was easy to fit one at a time and they are very light. They are also easy to cut to size.

I have had no problem with condensation as there is approximately just under an inch of space underneath and the panels are hollow and provide a thermal barrier . It was also easy to cut out for lights and things and the space is perfect for wiring and cables. You could if you wanted fit insulation in between but I have found there is no need.

I am really pleased with it and it is so easy to clean and remove a panel if you need to. One thing I would say is don’t use too much velcro as I did to begin with as the cladding becomes more difficult to remove. Just enough to hold the panel is sufficient.

I have enclosed a photo that shows the work as it progressed. Its been great for several years now and still looks good. When I have needed to do some wiring it has proved a doddle to take a panel down and then push it back in place .

 

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[Paul Stevens]

I fitted a second cleat on my seaforth for exactly the same reason.  The cleat was fitted equidistant( more or less)from the widest part of the beam as the existing cleat foreward.  Its not quite midships  but near enough to be a very useful addition.  I used an 8inch aluminium cleat to match the existing one foreward . The backing plate is  approximately 8mm aluminium and of equal length i.e.  8 inches. It fits snugly inside the toe rail. any longer would be a squeeze due to the curvature of the boat and I think its adequate. I used aluminium as the cleat is aluminium and I happened to have a piece in the garage ! otherwise stainless would have been ok.  I used stainless bolts coated to prevent electrolysis. I occasionally check with a mirror to see if its still intact.

It has stood up to some very heavy weather whilst on the pontoon. Hopefully I have attached a photo.

Its worth doing you just need to find a spot where you have decent access.

Regards

Paul Stevens

I hopefully have attached a photo for you to see

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[Paul Stevens]

Finally after 12 months or more out of the water and in the yard the hull has now been repaired. It has been a long drawn out process involving more than one specialist shipwright at least two surveyors and a very obdurate insurance claims assessor. I hope to have it back in the water in the next few weeks.  The lesson learnt is whenever ashore on the hard drain every single drop of water out from every single nook and cranny and at the first sign of frost put a heater in.

The quote for the work was ridiculously high when I mentioned that I may go through the insurance. When the insurance company refused to accept the claim amazingly the quote became more realistic. Anyway to cut a long story short they agreed to pay out 25% of the repair as they maintained that sub zero damage was only one of a possible four reasons for it.

Be persistent with any claim if you feel you have a good case as the insurance company hope that you will run out of steam and drop the case. You will get something back.

Anyway with a big hole in my pocket its now time to move on.

When the mast was removed and the support post cut back it was a surprise  to find how flimsy and small the support plate was at the inside hull surface. Its certainly something to be aware of. It now has a thick plate of hardwood that should last .

Another thing to look out for which may also have been a contributing factor was the shower tray which had obviously leaked at the bulkhead and also at the drain. This dripped down to the base of the mast support. I would make sure that its well sealed where it is close to the bulkhead and replace the drain and any hoses at the first sign of a leak.

Mike Hotard very kindly sent me a photo of his mast support when he was having his repair done. It is a different setup to mine which is a Trident boat and the Macwester built version actually appears more robust. Any Trident built owners out there it may be worth a routine inspection.

Hopefully now I can return to the water and start to contribute to the forum . Any body who has any issues with their Seaforth I can relate to and may even be able to help. I still love the boat.

 

 

[Paul Stevens]

Thanks Mike and Chris

I had intended to fit a drain to the anchor locker and I’m so cross with myself that I hadn’t done it earlier.

I did expect the mast to come down although hoping it wouldn’t have to.

With the information gathered I will contact the surveyor again and discuss it with him.

The problem is getting people to work on it. All the riggers are busy until late June so Ill just have to wait. I’m paying marina fees as well as yard fees so its getting expensive.

I haven’t thought about an insurance claim. Would this be something that they would consider ?

Hopefully I can at least get a month or two on the water before summer goes

Ill let you know how it goes.

Its an interesting one !

 

Thanks again

Paul

 

[Paul Stevens]

Glad it worked Graham.

Its a good fix and makes a great seal. You can use it for all sorts of things.

Cheers

[Paul Stevens]

Buy some appropriately sized expanded neoprene cord , cut it to size and join the two ends together with superglue and fit in place with a decent contact adhesive.

I’ve sealed my square westerly type windows this way and so far 2 years down the line they don’t leak.

Try these people seals plus direct. They have a decent website.

 

[Paul Stevens]

Hi Charles

Its a long stretch during the day. I plan on sailing in the opposite direction this summer. My wifes family live in Weymouth so we plan on  going into Portland marina for a few days then return. I plan on leaving Brixham in the early hours and hope to arrive early afternoon.

I have a Seaforth berthed in Brixham marina although currently having a bit of work done at Blackness marine on the Dart. Its a beautiful spot.

If I were doing it I would go into Brixham ( Im a bit biased as I enjoy its eateries and many pubs !)and have a night or two in the marina. I would then go up the Dart and then if time allows take a visitor mooring further up river especially as you can take the ground.

If you go in to Falmouth  take a diversion and go up the Helford River its equally lovely.

If you decide to call in at Brixham  give me a bell and I can meet you for a pint.

 

Regards

Paul Stevens

 

 

 

 

[Paul Stevens]

Hi Norman

I’ve just read your post regarding the chainplates and I had a similar problem when restoring my Seaforth not that long ago.

If they are the same as the Malin and I think they are then they are an inverted L shaped plate with the deck bolts bolted into them.

The plates are bolted through the the hull and the bolt heads are under the rubbing strake. I had to take this off so it enabled me to remove them and have a good look. The chainplates themselves were actually very strong with just surface discolouration. The  U bolts holding the rigging through the deck secured to top of the plates had somehow bent and needed replacing. Like yourself they were in tricky places to access. One was inside a locker which fortunately I was replacing. I think you will have to somehow  contort yourself if you don’t remove the locker or as you say will need to cut access into it. I will try and send a photo of them removed. I was unable to find any deck u bolts of the correct size . The guys rigging the boat suggested I had new ones made . These were different in that they had a welded stainless eye in place of the U. I think they are better. There is a section of marine ply between the underside of the deck and the plate. These were completely soggy and of no use and were replaced. Ill try and send a couple of photos.

If you need any further help let me know. e mail  pstevens60@hotmail.com

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