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Sorry, I forgot some of your questions: It’s a 1” shaft, and a PRM150 gearbox. The entire drive train, prop and prop shaft, etc. was replaced in 2014 by a previous owner in 2014/5, when the new engine was fitted. Personally, I would have preferred a classic stern gland with a stuffing box , but there is a dripless “Volvo” style one fitted.
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Hi Colin. I have a MW 27 (1976 : not that that matters, for all years of production, the hull and keels were not changed). I also have the Beta 20, with 2:1 reduction gearbox.
Unfortunately, I can’t find where I noted the inscriptions on the prop, and as the boat is afloat for the season, I can’t go and have a look. From memory, it’s 15” diameter, and 12” pitch, 3 blades, R.H. rotation.
That seems to be very well matched, I can reach around 6 knots in calm water at 2800rpm, without any fuss. More throttle will increase the size of the bow wave, and perhaps add half a knot, but no black smoke from the exhaust like my previous MW27 would do with its Volvo Penta MD2B 25 hp!
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No doubt your decision has been taken, but if any others are thinking about a new engine, I have a some comments : my first MW27 had a Volvo MD2B, which was certainly the right power (23hp at full speed), to punch against the strongest foul tide or headwinds, but it was so heavy that the stern of the boat was pushed down, creating extra drag, and sailing performance was permanently affected. Under full engine power as well, I could create impressive waves coming up the river if I wanted to get that last half a knot !
My current MW27 has a 3 cylinder Beta 20, which is best part of 100kg less cast iron than the Volvo, so the hull is sitting much better on the water, and the effective top speed is almost identical.
in between the 2 Macwesters, for 5 years, I owned a lovely Moody 37 (around 8 tons, and 3.8 metres beam) , which had the same BMC 1.5 litre 4 cyl diesel as most Malin and Seaforth. The difference was that it had a 3:1 ratio gearbox and a massive 3 blade prop. That means a lot more effective « push » for berthing manoeuvres, and in the worst of conditions, like one day in a thundery line squall with over 40kts of headwinds. The photo was taken a few minutes before, whilst we were lifting the anchor to get clear of the shore.
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That is the same type of installation as the Rotostay, which was fitted to many Macwesters (and other makes) from 1972 onwards. I had one on my previous MW 27.
If you look carefully at the top swivel, you can see the flexible wire halyard that goes through the sheave on the part of the swivel which turns with the luff profile. That should come back down to be attached to the head of the sail, to be able to hoist the luff all the way up the groove in the profile. I will find some photos on my desktop computer to show you more details
Hi Terry
When I get back home I will send you some photos of the modifications that had been done to the rudder stock ( and the top of the rudder, to have flanges welded to the rudder stock, (rather like the coupling for the propeller shaft to attach it to the back of the gearbox). That can then be unbolted to remove the rudder blade sideways, instead of having to lift the boat 2 metres above the ground.
This (IMHO) is the best type of strainer : Vetus , with nice big strainer, and transparent cover to see the water flow, and any weed , etc. that may have been sucked up.
https://www.asap-supplies.com/search?query=vetus+water+strainer
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More details of the engine block pump. There are different models: see the listings from ASAP
Spares are available, notably from ASAP supplies : https://www.asap-supplies.com/search?query=BMC+1.5d+water+pump
As for the raw water strainer, that has usually attached to the inlet seacock. Over the years, that could have been removed or replaced by something else. Next reply will show you what I have on my MW 27.
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This is the primary water pump that is on the front of the engine block, to circulate the antifreeze solution around the cylinders, cylinder head etc. to send it to the heat exchanger which is combined with the exhaust manifold. The “impeller” on that is cast iron, and does not require servicing. This setup is very similar to Austin Mini engines, and even closer to MGA 1500. That is driven by the same belt as the altenator. More to follow with extract from the parts manual.
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Please explain a bit more : any photos ? By « Mast Gate », do you mean the mast pivot point at the mast step to attach it to the deck? On my MW27, there is not the traditional «Tabernacle » galvanised or stainless steel cradle with 2 big bolts, but it is a perfectly safe arrangement.
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The loop should go up almost to the top of the transom, well above the waterline before coming back down to the exhaust outlet fitting, in fact above the level of the highest waves that you can imagine that could ever try to catch up with the boat. If not, when sailing, there is a risk of water getting back into the exhaust system, and eventually flooding the engine.
once running, the pressure created by the exhaust gas easily blows out the water from the cooling system which is injected into the exhaust just after the engine, AS LONG AS the diameter of the silencer, and the outlet tubing has been correctly sized to suit the engine. All engine manufacturers give guidance on that in the installation manual. The photo is of a typical installation, but using a commercial type of gooseneck shaped secondary silencer, instead of a loop of hose.
On our FaceBook page, in April, there was an offer for a Rowan 8m
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Standard water storage was port and starboard under the cushions in the fwd. cabin, using flexible tanks. The filler pipe came up through the hanging locker ou the portside, just fwd. of the main bulkhead.
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From the photo of the hull, no doubt : that is a Macwester 27 series 1. The date 1974 would be correct.
I can imagine 2 possibilities to explain the alternative interior layout :
At that time, there was strong demand for boats (and especially for the MW27, of course ), so the yard was working at the limit of capacity possible with the space in the workshops for fitting out, but the GRP moulding shop had a bit of spare capacity, so quite a few boats were sold and delivered as hull and deck assembly, with ballast and rudder fitted, and the main bulkhead bonded In place. The customer ( or his boatyard), would do all the cabin and bunk furniture, etc.
Otherwise perhaps a previous owner decided that he didn’t like the original setup, and ripped it up ?
A few years later, there was an alternative layout, with port and starboard settee bunks/seats, and a central table.In 1975/76, the Series 2 was developed: hull, keels and rig were unchanged. The deck moulding was substantially modified, with the toe-rails moulded GRP instead of screwed-on wood; GRP moulded flush-fitting forehatch, cockpit coaming and “garage” for the main hatch. The aft-deck hatches were also streamlined. I have mislaid the full revised sales brochure, but this was the flyer insert. Note that the standard engine was now a diesel, instead of the Stuart-Turner 10hp two-stroke!
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