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Hi Greg
All versions of MW27 had the same sail plan. Jeckells are the historic suppliers for Macwesters, and they have all the dimensions etc. If you are a paid up member of the Association, ask for a special quote!
In the technical forum you should find the specifications, should you be preference for a local sailmaker. Just one caveat: 50 years on, it’s worth checking that the mast is the original IYE , so that you get the correct sliders for the luff track.Further thoughts: the reason for leaving tanks full in the winter was to prevent water condensation on the inside of the (untreated mild steel) fuel tanks, as classic diesel is a diluted oil, that protects the metal.
I have no idea if the new blended diesel still provides the same protection.I agrée about the issue of the current policy of blending with bio ingredients, which are known to attract moisture, which increases the risk of bacterial growth.
As 99% of the volume of diesel sold goes into road and other transport things, most of which use up and refill their tank every few days or weeks, they hardly ever suffer from “diesel bug”. If the pollution levels are reduced as a result of the biodiesel use, then I suppose that it can be claimed that it is the right thing to do.
Due to the fact that auxiliary engines in sailing boats use 0.0000(0?0?)% of production of diesel fuel, it’s pretty unlikely that the refineries and distribution will want to continue to supply “straight” fuel.
Conclusion is that we will have to rely on using the proprietary additives that are available from reputable sources, or perhaps (as I do), drain my tank every spring, and come to an agreement with a friend who still has an oil-fired central heating boiler. I then fill up with fresh diesel from the local service station.
That is feasible with the 50 litre tank on my MW 27, but would be be more complicated with a bigger boat, especially if with twin tanks.On my previous 1976 Mk2 MW27, there was a 15mm plastic tube glass fibred inside the hull, that went from the bottom of the chain locker to the inside of the skeg, under the stern tube , behind the engine, not far from the suction tube for the bilge pump. It was in one length , and was intended only to drain the water that would come from the wet anchor chain.
There was no connection from the deepest part of the bilge under the cabin floor. If any water got in there, or into the recesses where the keel bolts are, that had to be removed with a sponge and bucket ( or a portable bilge pump).
The cockpit floor drains are also a totally separate system.That was the identity plaque for British ships Registration. (Now replaced by the SSR registration for the UK)
ON was the “Official Number”, and RT is theRegistered Tonnage which is a calculation of how many “tonnes” could be carried under the deck. Wood barrels, were used for packaging for most cargo transported by ships, long before the 40 foot steel containers were invented. The word is derived from the French “tonneau”. It has nothing to do with the actual weight, or displacement of the boat.
In my neck of the woods ( France) my insurance broker informed me that no company was willing to offer coverage for “all-risks” on boats over 40 years old, even with a perfect survey.😕
The ballast is a shaped cast iron block, which is fitted into the glass-fibre hull moulding (that was done before the deck moulding was bolted onto the top of the hull). To stop it from moving, a resin and microsphere glass beads mixture was poured from the inside, around the keel block, to fix it in place.
Over time, it is possible that the little hollow glass beads (they are a bit less than 1mm in diameter) could have crumbled, and allowed water to seep in, as it becomes more like a sponge. That might explain how water coming in from damage on the bottom edge or the keel can get up into the hull.
Be aware that a few boats were purchased as bare hull and deck mouldings, and were entitely fitted out by the customer, incuding the possibility of filling up the ballast keels with iron shot, scrap steel, concrete, and pretty well anything available!
Obviously the first step is, once the boat is out of the water, is to entirely remove the anyifouling paint from the lower edge, and the bottom of the keels, to see where the glass-fibre is damaged. Then, as Linda suggests, to let it drain out over the winter. Repair as necessary, when all has thoroughly dried out.
As far as I know, metal “shoes” to protect the keels were never offered as a factory-fitted option. Over the years, many owners have had them made up and fitted. Hopefully someone who has done that will reply withe a description of how they went about that.
On the 27, the cast iron keel is clearly visible on the photo (painted with white primer). Inside, if you remove the lower drawer in the galley, you can see one of the stainless steel fastenings which are one inch (25mm) diameter, and the reinforcement of the hull. There are 4 on each keel.
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If you have any photos of your boat out of the water, especially the central skeg ( under the propeller), and the rudder, that will enable us to identify the model.
If you can also confirm that you can see the joint between the glass fibre hull moulding, and the cast iron keels.Hi Robert
The comment on the keels being “removable” is a bit confusing! If he means that the ballast is not placed inside the hull moulding, that is correct for the Macwester 27, and it was the only Macwester to have the cast iron keels fixed to the hull with stainless steel studs. Due to the way that they are installed, I don’t think that it would be possible to remove them without enormous damage to the reinforcement structures inside the hull.
The surveyor is perhaps basing his comment on the fact that it is quite common to have to remove the keel, and replace the bolts on single keel yachts after any incident like running around. They are simply not designed to do that, unlike a twin keel Macwester which is intended to be able to be on a mooring which dries out twice a day with the tides.
Hi Peter
I can’t reply directly, as my cruising ground is on the West of France. The coast is mainly flat, and usually a good 4G signal will be available at least 5 miles offshore, often quite a bit more.
My comment is that as most mobile customers are wanting increasing speed of data connections for watching videos, and stuff like that, the technology is trending to using much higher radio frequencies : 4G uses 700Mhz to 2. 6 Ghz (wavelengths 40 cm to 11 cm). Now 5G is being deployed, most often using 26Ghz (wavelength around 1 cm). The distance that the signal can travel is (amongst other factors), depends on the frequency. Remember that the defunct Radio 4 LW transmitter at Droitwitch used 198Khz (1500 metres wavelength), and could be received over half of Europe. Our marine VHF radio is 156Mhz, which is around 2 metres wavelength, and ( if the aerials are high enough) will usually cover 10 to 25 miles.
It could be corrosion on the impeller on the primary water pump (the one on the engine block, which is driven by the same belt as the alternator). I assume that basic ideas like thermostat operation and specifications have already been checked? Otherwise you could suspect scaling up of the water galleries, especially if repeated overheating has encouraged topping up with tap water instead of antifreeze solution.
On my BMC1.5, I have fitted a pressurised overflow tank, so the heat exchanger stays 100% full at all times. The spring loaded pressure limiting cap is on the remote tank. I found one that was originally made for a Rover 2600, but the same thing was installed on many other cars.You must be logged in to view attachments.
Can’t help to find you an engine mechanic, but here are a couple of ideas to follow up:
Pretty unlikely to be coming from the raw water pump as there are 2 seals on that drive shaft: one to keep the oil in the sump, and the other to keep the water from getting out of the housing of the impeller. In between the two, there is a vent hole, and if one or the other is leaking, the respective fluid will be dripping out into the bilges.
The most likely issue is with a cylinder head gasket corroded or broken, which allows water from the cooling jacket around the cylinder head to get into the space where the valve rocker push rods go to the very top of the engine, and the oil that is fed under pressure to the rocker shaft drains back down to the oil sump.
These engines are very simple, and require no special tools to remove the cylinder heads, with the engine still in the boat. If you, or one of your friends feel up to doing that, you can see on the photo, (where the yellow dots are) the part of the gasket that separates the water from the oil. Any weakness in that area could allow the water to get into the sump.
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Hi Charles
It’s not easy to give a straight answer as so many factors can change the game:
A lot depends on the propellor. The optimal choice of the diameter and pitch would be influenced by the reduction ratio of the gearbox.
There is also a balance to be found between getting absolute maximum thrust for pure motoring in adverse conditions (when you could run the engine up to the speed of its maximum continuous power rating), and perhaps a slightly bigger pitch propellor to motorsail at maximum hull speed, without having the engine at full speed.
In pracice, if you find that if you gradually open the throttle, until the boat speed no longer increases, then there is not much point in trying to push the engine any harder. Any more will simply increase the fuel consumption and/or make a bigger bow wave for perhaps half a knot extra speed. Same thing if more throttle results in black smoke or soot on the exhaust. Weed or barnacles on the hull or propellor can give the same “overloaded” effect.
As Chris said, open everything that can be opened, unscrew any fixed floorboards. If you have power, and access to an electric dehumidifier, that is a good idea, preferably with the water drain going out through the sink drain, instead of filling up the internal reservoir. You could even put another ventilator to blow air under the floor boards.
