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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 58 total)
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  • in reply to: Water system #3710

    Hi Charles

    I am not sure if hot and cold water system was on the option list from new. Perhaps on the very end of production.
    Only advice could be to try to track where the tubes go, and check that there are no valves hidden to isolate part of the circuit. You could try to disconnect under the tap that doesn’t work, and see if it is not a blockage in the tap mechanism?

    in reply to: Macwester 27 water entry #3706

    The stern gland, when at rest, after a couple of turns on the grease cup, should not leak at all.

    in reply to: Mac Wight Sail Plan – request for #3705

    Hi Hamish

    this information is available from the technical officer, article 145 and/or 146, as per procedure on the MOA website.

    Technical Library

    Otherwise, Jeckells sails are traditional suppliers for Macwesters, and they have all the plans. Member’s discount available.

    All the best.

    Bob Tuffnell

    in reply to: Seaforth stern gland challenge #3684

    That is a tricky one, Mike.

    I think that I would first try to clean up the grease, and ( if you feel that it is safe to do so) , get a welding torch to heat up the remains of the studs, then quickly cool them with a jet of cold water. With a bit of luck that could break the “seal”, and enable you to unscrew them with a long-nosed Mole wrench.

    Otherwise cut the studs back as near as possible to the casting, and drill out the rest of the thread of the stud. No need to re-tap, as you can use a bolt to hold the stuffing box in place.

    If  you do manage to unscrew the stud, T Norris Marine can supply the replacement stud and nuts assy.

    Best of luck ?

    in reply to: Macwester 27 Nora Harfield #3669

    Hi Paul

    Could I suggest that you start a new thread on the forum for the solar panels question, please.

    Briefly, my opinion is that the MW27 already  tends to be a bit stern-heavy, especially if you have a big Diesel engine ( the original specifications, and standard practice in the end of the ‘60’s for cruising boats was to fit a Stuart Turner 10 hp 2 stroke petrol engine, which  weighed only about 50 kg.) .

    Too much weight aft means that the transom will be partially immerged , creating a lot of drag to the detriment of sailing and motoring performance. Addition of a gantry for solar panels would aggravate that considerably.

    in reply to: seacocks in the heads #3668

    Sorry for the late reply.

    pretty certain that it is 1 1/2” for the outlet, for 38mm inside diameter hose.

    Its worth looking at ASAP Supplies to get good quality stuff at acceptable prices. I believe that they give discount to MOA members.

    https://www.asap-supplies.com/fittings-valves-strainers

    in reply to: New to the group #3667

    Hi Michael

    list to starboard? As I recall ( boat sold in 2019) my 27 had a slight list to starboard. I think that was due to the fuel tank ( usually kept full) and the original battery stowage which was in the starboard cockpit locker, with 2 x 110A/h .
    I modified that by fitting one 75 A/h sealed battery under the aft end of the portside main cabin bunk, dedicated for engine starting, and the 2 x 110 A/h for the navigation and domestic circuits in the bottom of the central compartment under the fore cabin bunk. A pair of 35 sq. mm. cables came back to the 0/1/off/both switch next to the cabin entrance. That was sufficient for an emergency engine start in the event of the dedicated battery going down. That installation was particularly good when I fitted an electric windlass, as the supply cables were very short: full power available for lifting the anchor, as very little voltage loss, and no need for 12 metres of  (horribly expensive) 70 sq. mm. cables back to the main batteries.

    Happy sailing for 2022

    Bob.

    in reply to: seacocks in the heads #3660

    I agree with Chris.
    Don’t forget the option of reinforced  plastic, alternative to DZ or bronze. (Marine quality bronze is so expensive that it’s not really an option!).

    After years of corrosion, there is virtually no way that you can unscrew the valve from the skin fitting, so simply  get an angle grinder to work on the mushroom head of the outside. Go carefully, not letting it get too hot, and concentrate on the middle. Stop at the first sight of gelcoat. When you have a full circle of plastic visible, you can prise off the collar outside, and drive the threaded part inside the hull.

    in reply to: Gay Gauntlet saved! #3562

    Is it a red hull?

    in reply to: Removing the water tanks Wight 30 #3527

    The two original fuel tanks were made of mild steel, painted red oxide, either side of the engine.

    in reply to: Pelagian #3504

    Black Magic was the star of the Macwester stand at the Amsterdam boat show, when new. Philip Hamers was the importer/sales agent for the Netherlands. Can’t remember if he kept the boat for himself, or sold on to a customer.

    I will have a look in my old photos, see if I can find anything.

    in reply to: Macwester 27 keel bolts #3503

    Did he say just the seacock ( valve) or was he saying that the skin  fitting ( the kind of giant hollow bolt that is clamped to the hull),  should be checked as well ?
    What material are they ? Brass, plastic? Any chance of a photo.

    As a general rule, I would advise that you have the boat ashore to do that. After years of service, the chance of getting the different parts unscrewed without any issues is pretty slim. Almost inevitably the only answer is to use an angle grinder to carefully remove the head of the skin fitting on the outside, and remove the old assembly from the inside.

    Even trying to do that on a tide, with the boat drying out on the hard can be pretty stressful, especially for the engine inlet which is very low down, so you don’t have much time to work on it, unless you are in Jersey with more than 10 metres of tide range.

     

     

    in reply to: Macwester 27 keel bolts #3495

    Hi Don.

    I replied to that issue on this forum 26 December 2020. Please read that. Just note that Stuart Roy has retired from doing surveys.

    My opinion is that it is impossible to unscrew the keel bolts on a MW 27 without removing most of the interior, and the reinforcement structure of the support blocks under the keel bolt nuts, which are very solidly glassfibred to the hull moulding. This is due to the fact that there is a shoulder half way down the keel bolt, which is tightened up to the inside of the hull moulding during the fitting of the keels, before putting the top support into place, and fibreglassing it to the hull.

    Your surveyor is probably being over cautious. Ask him if he has ever heard of a Macwester 27 having the slightest problem with keel bolts. If he insists, consider another survey from someone with longer experience, to examine just the keel bolts.

    I worked for Macwesters at Littlehampton from 1972 ( when the 27 started production) until 1978, and owned a 1976 Mk 2 for some 25 years.

    I believe that somewhere in the archives there is the drawing of the design.

    in reply to: Sliding hatch vents Mac27 Mk II #3481

    Could you post a picture of a slightly larger view? Can’t quite situate where that is.

    in reply to: Macwester 27 #3439

    You might like to have a look at an article that I wrote some years ago about rubbing strake replacement, which was republished in the Spring 2019 Macwester Journal p22/23

    It can be accessed on the Clubhouse page of the website- Library-Journal archive.

    Don’t hesitate to come back with more details or pictures.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 58 total)